The clash of textiles and colour. The juxtaposition of thick woolly socks with the most delicate jewelled barely-there sandals. The Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2013/14 show has played on my mind since the models took to the runway on a cold late-February day, but before being allowed to get too excited we’ve had a season of delicate lace Dolce florals and bright yellow Vuitton checks to enjoy…
..but sitting on the wettest evening ever to come out of August, tucked up in bed in my favourite silky pair of pyjamas I can finally pour over the most stunning feathered jumpers and shaggy fur coats.
‘Well I started with menswear and we introduced ball room dancing and ice skating and just let all those female embellishments invade the menswear. We just clashed it together to see what would happen.’ – Dries Van Noten, February 2013.
A far cry from the usual androgynous chic we’ve become used to, rather than aspire to inject femininity with a masculine sensibility, he has done it the other way around, introducing feminine accents to manly separates by way of decorative Asian influence, vibrant shots of colour and a clever manipulation of texture.
Texture added an elegant, glamorous touch: feathers found their way onto dresses, and later covered floor-length skirts and shift dresses; fringed flapper dresses and tops shimmered as they caught the light; oversized crystal ear cuffs added sparkle; and beautifully embroidered jacquard showed up on jackets, trousers suits and below-the-knee skirts.